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Midnight Planetarium

Sometimes marriage marks the beginning of a story that goes far beyond the relationship between two people. In 1895 Alfred Van Cleef, the son of the famous Dutch diamond cutter, married Estelle Arpels, whose father was a gems dealer. Some years later the couple decided to establish a company of their own and Estelle’s three brothers joined the newly opened jewelry salon. For more than a century from that time the Van Cleef & Arpels brand became famous all over the world due its exquisite designs.

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The first Van Cleef & Arpels shop was located in Paris. Years went by, and, as business was flourishing, the family decided to open other shops in Nice, Cannes, New York, Monte Carlo and Palm Beach. In 20’s and 30’s the children of the founders made the company one of the market leaders, and since that time the brand has been occupying this position.

It was not only simple jewelry that Van Cleef & Arpels dealt with. The company brought many fabulous innovations to the industry, such as box for ladies’ accessories called minaudiere (a small case for cigarettes, lipstick, powder, comb, etc.) and a special technique of gemstone settings called “invisible setting”. When gems are settled this way, it seems like nothing holds them – no bezels, bars or prongs. But, of course, they are secured by a metal grid and held by tiny grooves. This technique allowed implementing an incredible variety of designs and it is still used by the brand in lots of its products.

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Today Van Cleef & Arpels is managed by Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, the company located in Switzerland, and it remains one of the most notable brands at the luxury market. The designers of the company are inspired by nature and haute couture and the masterpieces created by them lead us to the world of fantasies and magic. The product of this brand have always been appreciated by royals, top actresses and high society persons. Among the clientele of Van Cleef & Arpels there were Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Dietrich, Sophia Lauren, the Kennedys, the Onassises, the Vanderbilts and others.

The audience of this brand is mostly represented by women, but there are certain masterpieces which have been designed specifically for men. The watch called Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication, introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels in 2014 is honestly something stunning. This is the high-end astronomically-themed watch, and it actually takes some efforts to understand them both thematically and technically. This timepiece seems to combine the specifics of the Van Cleef & Arpels style and experience of one of the prominent watchmakers, Christiaan van der Klaauw. He was the designer who worked on the exclusive planetarium module.

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There is a perpetual calendar on the rear of Midnight Planetarium timepiece which has indicators for the day/night/and year. The rotating bezel moves the sapphire crystal, and a small star on the crystal goes along with it. Would you expect that it is made to point out your “lucky star”? The first thing that the owner of this masterpiece should do is to align the red arrow with a special day of the year in the peripheral calendar. When that day comes, the Earth indicator orb will appear under the star and identify the special (poetic) day of the year for its owner. State-of-art technologies inspire, indeed.

Astronomy fans will especially love the vision of six planets and the sun at their wrists (a part of the solar system), and what is special about them is that they actually move in real time just the way they move in the sky.  The trickiest thing here is the first adjustment of the watch. Perhaps it would be better to let the professional make the first settings, because the Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication is not so easy to handle. The watch has the automatic movement which is the good part, because it is possible to keep this wonderful timepiece on a winder when the owner doesn’t wear it. He may forget about the fear that the planets will lose their ways in space at some unexpected moment.

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Besides displaying the planets and the sun, the dial also tells time in 24 hour format. There is no minute hand, and a small comet on the dial slowly moves and indicates the time on the 24 hour track. Midnight Planetarium is among the small number of single-handed masterpieces, however, the exactness of time telling is not the main function of this watch. The rear has magnifiers over the two windows that show the day and the month and a legend to remind the owner what stones represent in terms of planets. The Van Cleef & Arpels masterpieces have never been just about jewels or simple things of luxury segment. The company puts the “emotional complication” within the concept of this watch, and it is even more a challenge when delivering a product for men, not for women. To know where the planets are at the moment is actually an emotional thing, but it represents the state of universally important things which are, however, far beyond our control and the level of our everyday life.

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium Poetic Complication (4)

 

The size of the Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication is 44mm. It looks and feels large due to the bezel but it is definitely not the largest model at the contemporary market. The case of the timepiece in currently only in 18k pink gold but hopefully in the coming years the company will introduce other case colors. The edition of Midnight Planetarium is limited, and there are only 396 watches of this kind. The cost of 18k rose gold variant is $245,000 and for 18k rose gold with diamond decoration it is $300,000.

The other, most common (in terms of Van Cleef & Arpels sense) watches by this brand for men are represented in Pierre Arpels range. Despite having slim Piaget mechanical movements and being masterpieces in their own sense, they will never draw as much attention as Midnight Planetarium does. So, perhaps, currently it is the most successful example of men’s timepieces delivered by Van Cleef & Arpels for all the times.

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